Thailand is used to getting attention. In 1974, the Bond film The Man With The Golden Gun shot several scenes around Bangkok and Phang Nga Bay. In the 1980’s, the Rambo franchise used the awe-inspiring scenery of Chiang Mai as a backdrop. In the 2000’s, The Beach chose Koh Phi Phi to depict its fictional secret idyll, while Renée Zellweger, Colin Firth, and Hugh Grant packed for Phuket to film Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason.
Thanks to the award-winning HBO series The White Lotus, The Land of Smiles is once again set for stardom. If you’ve had a chance to catch the show’s third series, out now, it likely won’t just be the high-octane drama that’s keeping you hooked, but also the striking backdrop of Koh Samui. Sitting pretty in the Gulf of Thailand, this darling island has so far kept its beauty under wraps. But naturally, word gets out. “The kingdom’s exotic natural beauty, rich historical sites, and diverse landscapes are the perfect settings to share our fascinating culture, fantastic cuisine, top-notch wellness offerings, and people,” said Thapanee Kiatphaibool, governor of the Tourism Authority of Thailand.
Just as the previous filming locations of series one and two saw an influx of tourists to Hawaii and Italy, the “White Lotus Effect” is already in full swing in the region, with many major travel operators seeing spikes in bookings. Find Your White Lotus tours abound and rooms at Four Seasons Koh Samui – where the majority of filming took place – are selling for USD$12,000 per night.
Thankfully, there are more affordable places to stay on Koh Samui, and I’m on my way to one of them – Ban Suriya, a luxury villa on Lipa Noi beach. Unlike my first jaunt to Thailand back in 2002, when I landed with a backpack and the name of a beach scribbled on an A4 piece of paper, my arrival at the property is a far more stylish experience. I’m picked up by my host, The Luxe Nomad, at Koh Samui airport, and whisked by private vehicle to the lesser-explored west of the island, just 20 minutes away.
Beachfront escape
Ban Suriya oozes take-it-easy vibes. The moment I step inside, I feel like I’m in an episode of Selling Sunset, just without the tan, teeth, and endless legs. It’s fresh, contemporary, stunning and snazzy. Being a beachfront escape, the entire villa is awash with radiant natural light, making you feel warm and welcome from the get-go. Designed with sophistication and style by a Singaporean designer, I enter an extensive ground-floor social area where sleek tones meet vibrant blues that echo the hues of the sky and sea beyond. Before me lies an elegantly appointed dining space with a large table nestled between a curl-up-and-cosy reading nook and a relaxing “media” lounge with a sinkable sofa, TV, books and board games, perfect for unwinding in the evening or for escaping the sunshine during the day. Upstairs fast becomes my favourite spot with a second chill-out area complete with vibrant artwork, cool light fittings, swinging egg chair, and an old-school Planter’s chair. Is it just me, or is said chair crying out to be joined by a cheeky G’n’T?
Leading off the upstairs area is a balcony which makes the ideal setting for some sneaky sunbathing, a game of giant chess, or a yoga session underneath swaying palms. Alternatively, it’s the perfect place to plonk on a high seat and simply marvel at your manor below. Highlights from this angle include views of the sparkling 20-metre swim-up pool and surrounding sun loungers, the sprawling front lawn, a cute treehouse begging to be enjoyed with a cocktail in hand, and a dining table made for a patio party. Ahead lies the fine, white-sand beach of Lipa Noi, with the Gulf of Thailand stretching as far as the eye can see.
Framing the lawn are some of the six large and uniquely themed bedrooms. Complete with oceanfront views, each one features modern Asian architecture and is inspired by concepts such as a butterfly theme and an under-the-sea motif, providing pretty surroundings and a sense of peace. For those seeking extra seclusion, two private pavilions – one with a double bed and another with a twin room – offer fabulous hidey-homes. The twin room, especially, is great for kids, with its adjoining lounge and smaller pool so little ones can hang out away – but not too far – from parents. Nestled behind the pool is a gym space with minimal equipment, but great for mat work or a personal training session.
With a wide range of facilities available, Ban Suriya can comfortably accommodate 15 people, making it a superb choice for larger families or groups of friends. It can also host up to 150 guests for weddings. It feels so romantic as the sun sets with a wash of gold and crimson each evening, that I almost consider proposing to the pool maintenance man myself.
Exquisite dining, impeccable service
The villa’s wow factors don’t stop at its design and vistas – they also extend to the food and service. Here, you truly live the high life with your own staff on hand. I genuinely want to take the kind and wise villa manager, Tik, back to Singapore with me! The villa’s private chef, Chef Teddy, brings 26 years of experience, expertly blending traditional Thai cooking with innovative twists. Just tell him what you fancy eating each day, or ask him to surprise you, and he’ll whip up some epic feasts using fresh ingredients from the local Sri Far market and nearby stores, mixed with herbs such as chilli, kaffir lime, basil, lemongrass, and ginger – all homegrown in Ban Suriya’s grounds. While some guests send an in-depth daily meal planner ahead of arrival, I let Chef Teddy lead the way. Favourites included his Pad Thai (see right) encased in a delicate omelette, which explodes as you cut through the thin layer of egg packing thick slurry noodles, bean sprouts, carrots, and sweet roast pork. For dessert, his Bua Loy Nam King – black sesame rice balls floating in invigorating ginger tea – was an absolute banger.
“Physical senses are experienced at a heightened level at Ban Suriya”
Alongside taking part in Chef Teddy’s cooking classes and badgering him for his secret recipes, there are all manner of activities available for all ages. For children, there’s a pool table, table tennis, volleyball, and inflatable unicorns can also magically appear by the pool if you so wish. Tik tells me that Muay Thai boxing classes are especially popular with kids and teens. Spa treatments, massage services and yoga can be arranged upon request. For more watery sports, guests can try kayaking, SUP boarding, or jet skiing. Alternatively, you can do nothing at all. All physical senses are experienced at a weirdly heightened level at Ban Suriya – in a good way. The smell of Thai ylang-ylang, the taste of Chef Teddy’s special spicy jus, the twist of lime in the mango daiquiri, and the whisper of the breeze as it dances through the trees.
Understandably, you may not want to leave this pocket of pure paradise, but if you do, Koh Samui has plenty to offer. Ang Thong Marine National Park boasts awe-inspiring landscapes and diverse wildlife, while the Dusit Deva Cultural Centre provides a unique insight into the rich heritage of Thailand. However, if The White Lotus bug has well and truly bitten, Thai insiders claim that key scenes were shot on the nearby and remote Taling Ngam Beach, as well as at Fisherman’s Village in Bophut, with its wooden shophouses and lively market. As you stroll amidst the traditional Thai architecture, soaking up the buzzy atmosphere, just keep your eyes peeled for signs of high-jinx, outrageous misbehaviour, and the odd illicit holiday act in the shadows . . !
More luxurious villas to love
- For cozy privacy: BAN HINYAI
Located on the southern coast of Koh Samui, this homely villa combines simple, modern design with natural elements. Pack for five beautifully appointed bedrooms, a kitchen, and a hip lounge which is ideal for movie viewing. Floor-to-ceiling windows open up to an expansive outdoor area and infinity pool with amazing views of the Gulf of Thailand. There’s also a huge table ideal for gatherings in which to dine al-fresco under the stars. For family fun, there’s an entertainment room, plus the little private beach in front of the property is a lovely space for kids to play in safety.
- For slinky vibes: LA LAGUNE
Slap-bang on the beachfront, La Lagune is part Thai vibes, part Miami cool. The vibrant, modern design and jaw-dropping ocean views make this private villa all about easy-breezy lux. Recline by the vast swimming pool that merges with the horizon, surrounded by lush gardens, or enjoy the spacious rooms that flow effortlessly between indoor and outdoor living. With six stylish bedrooms, a central area of open-plan living and dining space, and a fully equipped kitchen, you feel like you’re in a painting! There’s also a private tennis court, gym, and children’s nursery. Where can we hide so we can stay forever?
- For timeless trad: BAN SAIREE
Experience the charm of a bygone era, all while enjoying contemporary comforts at Ban Sairee. Built in classic Lanna style, this property showcases over 50 years of intricate craftsmanship, with rich wooden floors, hand-carved details, and a vibe that transports you back in time. The nine rooms are super-charming, blending Thai elegance with modern comfort, and can accommodate up to 22 guests at one time. Whether you’re celebrating with loved ones or seeking a getaway with a gaggle of friends, the tranquil ambience here is second to none. Outside, the expansive grounds feature a refreshing swimming pool, beachfront gardens and tennis courts, giving you plenty of opportunities to play, unwind, and live your best island life.
Discover more about The Luxe Nomad at +65 3129 7704
theluxenomad.com @theluxenomad
