On my first visit to Amsterdam 10 years ago, I recall being surprised to find the Dutch capital’s reputation as a sex and sin hotbed was well-earned; an excess of window brothels in the notorious Red-Light District and cannabis coffee houses seemingly on every corner. What I also recall from that visit was a Dutch friend saying, “Take a good look at this now, as much of it will be gone within a decade. This city just keeps evolving.”

His words from 2009 hung heavily in my mind during my recent return visit when I saw his predictions had indeed come true. A walk around Amsterdam today reveals just how much has changed in recent years, and how an easier-paced city has emerged as a result. It’s most telling in the Red-Light District in the De Wallen area. Once one of the busiest tourist areas, an estimated one-third of the window brothels have now closed. In their place is a new breed of small cafes, restaurants and bars. The coffee houses are still there, but what I recall from a decade ago is wildly-affected smokers literally falling out of shops. This time around, I saw none of that. In fact, the patrons going in and out of the shops appear far better behaved. While some might argue Amsterdam has lost some of its edge, it’s showing a far more family-friendly face to visitors these days.

A decade ago, run-down and dilapidated buildings dotted the landscape, along with a mess of construction as the new metro system was built. Now, the city appears clean and polished, showing off the beautiful architecture of its canal houses and their gabled facades, fronting onto quaint cobblestone streets and the crisscross of canals. The new metro line has also been finished and makes getting around easier than ever. Not that getting around Amsterdam, which has regularly been named as the top city in the world for cyclists, has ever been a problem. The city centre is compact and flat, which makes it ideal for strolling around and taking in its many sights and sites.

This unique city was built on 90 islands, surrounded by 165 canals. The canals define Amsterdam’s landscape and have been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Floating down the waterways on a boat tour offers a distinctive perspective of the city, with most of the tours taking about an hour. Or, do as the locals do, and grab a set of wheels to see Amsterdam. The humble bike has right of way everywhere, and so a bike tour offers an easy way to take in all that Amsterdam has to offer. As the city is so flat, it is also an activity that visitors of any fitness level or ages can do, while taking an up-close view of its many quarters. Mikes Bikes offer city tours, €28 for three hours. mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com

TOP 5 MUST SEE’S

1. Dam Square:
At the centre is the busiest place – Dam Square, surrounded by the 17th-century Royal Palace, New Church and the National Memorial Statue. This huge and imposing public space is also where you’ll find Madame Tussauds wax museum, and streets and alleyways going off in all directions full of vendors selling clothing, food and souvenirs.

2. Rijksmuseum:
One of Europe’s most important art collections is in the Rijksmuseum, which boasts seven million works including 5000 of the world’s most important paintings. The collections span everything from ancient treasures through to modern art, with special family-themed tours that offer children an insight into the various collections. rijksmuseum.nl/en

3. Vondelpark:
In a compact city, the Vondelpark is something of a relief, and where Amsterdam can literally spread out across 116 acres. The green space is dotted by peaceful ponds and traversed by a maze of paths, with a range of gardens, sculptures and children’s playgrounds. The Vondelpark Open Air Theatre presents music and stage productions in Spring and Summer.

4. Amsterdam Flower Market:
Close to Vondelpark, a burst of colour awaits at the Amsterdam Flower Market, one of the few floating flower markets in the world, with many stalls situated on houseboats. Located along the Singel canal near the Koningsplein, this market has been in operation since 1862, and its waterside setting is a reminder of the old days when the market was supplied by boat.

5. Anne Frank House:
Possibly the most important place in all of Amsterdam is the Anne Frank House, where Anne and her family hid from the Nazis during the darkest days of World War II, while she wrote her famous diary. Much of the home has been kept as it was during Anne’s time, and seeing the real pages of Anne’s actual diary serves as a poignant monument of history.

NEXT STOP, AMSTERDAM
For years, London to Amsterdam has been one of the world’s busiest air routes. Now, getting to the Dutch capital from the UK is a simple and direct train ride, the Eurostar now runs between London and Amsterdam in just under four hours. It’s an easy ride across the 585km, from King Cross-St Pancras direct to Centraal, linking the two cities on the occasion of Eurostar’s 25th anniversary. At this stage, the Eurostar to Amsterdam only runs in the one direction, with a return journey to London yet to be announced. Fares start from €40 one way.
Details: raileurope.com.au

The writer travelled to Europe from Singapore as a guest of Scoot Airlines – flyscoot.com

Tierpark Hellabrun (Munich Zoo)
hellabrunn.de/en
This large zoo and nature complex on the banks of the Isar River has lots of attractions for the whole family. As well as daily keeper talks and animal feeding shows, there is a large petting zoo. One of the daily activities invites kids to take a walk with llamas or ponies and their keepers. The animals are not the only drawcard here. An extensive adventure playground offers large climbing structures and tall slides for bigger kids, with an adjacent biergarten (beer garden) for resting parents, and there is also a cute toddler’s playground near Café Rhino.

Deutsches Museum
deutsches-museum.de/en
The Deutsches Museum is a world-renowned science and technology museum. The Kids Kingdom area offers oversized Lego blocks, a build-your-own marble run, a giant guitar, optics table, a rope and pulley system, and a building area with recycled objects. The transport section was a huge hit with all three generations of our family. Everyone’s favourite was the air transport exhibition. Historical aviation, modern aviation and flight physics are beautifully presented, with life-size planes and plenty of interactive elements for the kids.
The astronomy exhibit and planetarium, and the musical instruments section were also popular with our family. Older kids may also be interested in the nanotechnology, physics and communications exhibitions. Plan to spend at least half a day here. There is a restaurant and café, or bring your own food and picnic in the courtyard.

Englischer Garten (English Garden)
muenchen.de/int/en/sights/parks/english-garden
One of the largest urban parks in the world, the Englischer Garten dates back to the late 1700s. At its highest point, the Monopteros Pavilion offers a stunning overview of the garden and surrounding city. It’s a popular jogging and cycling spot (rent adult and child bikes in the garden at MucBike (mucbike.de), or you can rent paddle boats at Kleinhesseloher Lake. The Garden’s 7000-seat biergarten is Munich’s second largest. It often has live music and there is a lovely playground nearby.
The quirkiest attraction here is the surfers at the Eisbach stream. This stream produces a standing wave, which has become a popular local surfing spot. But the fast-moving current and cold water means this one is best left to experienced board riders!

Nymphenburg Palace
schloss-nymphenburg.de/englisch/palace
In the west of Munich lies Nymphenburg Palace and Park. The Palace was a summer residence to Bavarian royalty from 1679. The Palace houses an impressive Great Hall, luxurious bedchambers and the ‘Gallery of Beauty’, a series of over thirty portraits of beautiful women from all classes of society.
Extensive gardens include floral displays, water fountains, lakes, and a forest. Taking a walk through the grounds on a quiet mid-week day we were lucky enough to spot a rabbit, squirrels, swans, ducks, geese, and even a shy deer in the distance. Another area of the palace complex hosts a carriage museum with over forty carriages and sleighs of the type used by the Bavarian royals.

Munich City Centre
To see the heart of Munich, head to the city centre, or Marienplatz. The Neue Rathaus (New Town Hall) dominates the city square. The clock tower’s twice-daily musical show, the Rathaus – Glockenspiel, shows carved figures from Munich’s history twirling around the tower.

Other city sights:
Residenz – the seat of government and residence of Bavarian dukes, electors and kings. One of the most popular exhibits here is the Schatzkammer (treasury), showcasing jewellery, crowns and other valuables belonging to the Bavarian royals.
Viktualienmarkt – an outdoor market and biergarten where you can sample local cheeses, meats, breads and other delicacies.
Hofbräuhaus – Munich’s most famous biergarten is open 365 days a year. It’s worth a visit for traditional interiors, live music, and a Masskrug (one litre glass) of good local beer in the lovely courtyard.

Neuschwanstein Castle
neuschwanstein.de/englisch/palace
If you have time for a daytrip outside Munich, Neuschwanstein is a must. Possibly the most famous castle in the world, and the inspiration for Walt Disney’s princess castle, it was built between 1869-1892. Originally designed as a private retreat for King Ludwig II, the castle was completed after his death in 1886. The palace is about two hours outside of Munich. You can only see the castle as part of a guided tour and tickets should be booked well in advance. It’s best with older kids as strollers are not allowed inside the castle.

Getting around:
• Munich has a good public transport system with the U-Bahn (underground rail), tram, bus and S-Bahn (aboveground rail). Taxis are plentiful but expensive. muenchen.de/int/en/traffic/getting-around
• Munich has well-developed cycling paths, so this is a good option in sunny weather. Check muenchen.de/int/en/traffic/biking.html for rental options and cycling maps.

Where to stay
• Munich has a wide range of accommodation but can be on the expensive side.
• The Motel One at Deutsches Museum (motel-one.com) has well-designed, modern rooms from around $150 per night but they are very small. Another reasonably-priced and well-located option is the Novotel Munich City (accorhotels.com) Not on a budget? The top hotel in Munich is the Kempinski kempinski.com/en/munich/hotel-vier-jahreszeiten

With the roaring success of Nikoi, visionary Australian owner Andrew Dixon and his partners were looking for another property to develop – this time with a focus on couples and adults. Cempedak (the local word for “Jackfruit”), a 7-hectare private island located 9km off the coast of Bintan, proved an ideal choice. Fringed by pristine sandy beaches and studded with striking white granite boulders, Cempedak is an absolute treasure. It buzzes with wildlife – from inky butterflies to curious otters, shy pangolin and marine life, but during a stay it’s easy to feel like you’re completely alone in the wilderness.

First impressions
Bouncing over cobalt waters on a speedboat, we sight the island and its impressive bamboo villas, curving gracefully into the thick jungle setting. Arriving at the jetty to a warm welcome from staff, it’s clear Cempedak has nailed their brief – taking the very best cues from over a decade of fine-tuning on Nikoi. It’s a resort that focuses on thoughtful, simple luxuries and lets the island’s natural beauty take centre stage.
Little wonder the rest of the world is hearing the call of Cempedak’s considerable charms – on our transfer we meet guests from Australia, who have travelled expressly to stay at the resort, bypassing Singapore for the island experience.

Time to eat
The stress of mainland life dissipates as we sit down at a table overlooking the sea. We’re presented with a generous platter of spicy local curries, vegetables and coconut rice, followed by a lick-the-bowl-clean jackfruit icecream. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are offered as a package – with a flexible set menu that changes daily. During our visit we’re treated to perfect eggs and bacon, freshly baked muffins, strong brewed coffee and tropical juices, lobster with squid ink tagliatelle, grilled fish, noodles, seasonal fruits and more. Eating very well is part of the Cempedak experience, and several times during our stay we’re asked if we’d like more dessert or pastries – the answer usually being yes, but no!

Wow factor
A short buggy ride away is Villa 18 – our home for the next few days. Staff confide that they love flinging open the villa doors, as guests are left gaping in awe at the knock-out ocean views and horizon plunge pool on the expansive deck. As our host explains how to use the supplied iPad to make bookings or requests, we can hardly drag our eyes or our attention from the view, repeatedly muttering “wow” and feeling like the luckiest people alive. During our stay we bump into Cempedak’s lead architect Miles Humphreys and have a chat at the bar about what it takes to build a resort almost entirely from bamboo and local grasses. His commitment to the project spanned over many years, with an unwavering vision to build structures that blended into the landscape and invited cooling sea breezes (rooms are naturally ventilated and there’s no need for air con) but were strong enough to withstand monsoon season. He points out the clever places where he reinforced and tethered the material and hid electrical cabling; each villa took three months to construct, with 30,000 pieces of bamboo shipped from Java and Sumatra, and they are truly a sight to behold.

What to do
Leaving our villa proves difficult – guests can order drinks and meals directly to their front door…tempting! But we make the effort to explore our lovely surroundings – a guided nature walk reveals the island’s thriving herb garden, unique composting system (it involves a colony of maggots!) and bats coiled into fruit trees.
At the friendly boathouse on the beach we sign up for a spin on a catamaran, taking the rudder and slicing a path to neighbouring islands, feeling the wind in our hair and the call of the open seas. The following day we take out a paddleboard and grab a couple of snorkel masks to flipper past small reef fish. Cempedak also offers diving and snorkelling trips to nearby reefs, and lazy island hopping with a picnic basket. March to November is usually the best for diving in these waters – when visibility is clear, and seas are calmer. We don’t have time to take the bike tour of a local island, or try rock-climbing and a game of barefoot lawn tennis. But we do squeeze in a visit to the spa on our final morning – the prices are reasonable for this style of luxury resort ($65 for an hour long massage) and we splurge on a 90-minute Balinese massage. Located on a rocky point, the beds look out to mangroves and water views, and all we can hear is the lapping of gentle waves, as our therapists do their magic. Sipping on ginger tea post treatment, it’s amazing how much we’ve unwound in just a couple of days.

Sustainability and staff
Cempedak is an impressive model for sustainability in tourism. The resort was built and is operated using local materials, labour and services and many of the contractors and staff have picked up new trades and techniques during their time on the island. There’s a passion and commitment to preserving the environment and local communities, through ongoing sustainability, education and employment programs. Supplies are sourced locally, where possible – much of the delicious food is picked up at local markets. Staff here work a 5-day week, instead of the usual 6, so they can return home to Bintan to see their friends and family on their weekends.
During our stay we are impressed by the cheerful friendly staff – they are eager and available to help, but also leave us to explore the island on our own. As we push off from the jetty with heavy hearts, staff wave until we slip out of view. We feel like we’ve been welcomed into their extended family during our stay, and that’s a big part of what makes Cempedak so incredibly special. As a travel writer I’ve stayed in my share of excellent resorts, but this is one of my all-time favourites.

Getting there: A one-hour ferry from Singapore to Bintan Resorts, an hour drive to the jetty and a speedboat launch of less than 30 minutes will have you in Cempedak in around three hours.

Pricing: Villas start from $450 a night, and daily meals are $95++ per person. Free activities are offered daily.

When to go: Any time of the year is lovely – we visited during the monsoon season and it was sunny and warm, with fresh winds. March to November offers clearer water and more predictable weather.

To book: cempedak.com