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Japan – Skiing in Myoko Kogen

Some Japanese ski towns are so overrun they’re called ‘Kuta Beach on Ice’. Kieran Nash steers clear, and heads to unspoilt Myoko Kogen for some uninterrupted runs.

It’s below freezing outside, but I’m sweating.

Rushing past well-dressed Tokyo commuters, I run to the platform of the Aoyama-Itchome subway station. On cue, trains going in opposite directions screech to a halt, and streams of suit-clad salary men burst from the doors.

Which way to go? I haven’t had enough time to get acquainted with Tokyo’s tangled subway network. I pick a train and stumble into the carriage just as the doors whoosh to a close. I look at the map. It’s the wrong train and it’s carrying me further from my destination. I now have 20 minutes to catch the Nagano bullet train, which will carry me from the mad metropolis of Tokyo to the isolated, snowy meadows of Myoko Kogen, a ski field about 220km northwest.

30 minutes later, I’m running through the gate to where the bullet trains depart. My increasingly angry girlfriend Jacqui follows closely. The 20kg packs we’re both carrying aren’t helping the mood, or the mobility. The train’s long gone, so that’s a 7500 yen (S$100) ticket down the drain. Or so we think – the next train arrives and we can use our old tickets.

Urban jungle gives way to rural residential in a 260km/h blur, and two hours later we’re in Nagano, home of the 1998 Winter Olympics. There’s no time to waste, and five minutes later we’re on another train, which winds its way north at an easier pace, threading upwards through the snow-draped mountains which look as they’ve been blasted with freshly-mixed meringue.

The small town of Myoko is a ten-minute drive from the resort of Akakura Kanko, which is our final destination. The van stops at a gathering of small, four-storey hotels opposite a gondola, and we haul our packs to the reception area of Hotel MOC.

We’re greeted by Sachiko Mochizuki, the lady of the house, and her small dog Tokyo. Her English is impeccable, and we’re handed the keys to our room, a hybrid Japanese/Western creation, which is about four times larger than our not tiny Tokyo hotel room, with heater blasting and four cushions placed on a rattan-clothed floor, on which stands a low table in traditional Japanese style.

The bathroom houses a magic toilet, which greets me with a cheerful, expectant beep each time I duck inside, raising the lid in an inviting gesture. But there’s no time to admire the strange Japanese technology. The sun is out and there’s snow on the mountain. It’s time to sample some powder.

Jacqui and I cross the road, scale a small hill, and we’re at the gondola. But first, we have to hire some gear. It’s a five-minute traipse to Myoko Snowsports, where we rent our gear. Melbourne photographer Matt Hull, who is here in Myoko Kogen for his fourth season, fills us in. The 31-year-old says Myoko Kogen is far removed from the “Kuta Beach on Ice” which Niseko – the famous ski town on the northern island of Hokkaido is rumoured to be. “Myoko is still somewhat of a hidden gem in Japan, although we are seeing more and more western guests coming through our doors we seems to be attracting the right type of people, guests who are here for a cultural experience as well as a ski holiday. Myoko is not known for its nightlife and has limited establishments to cater for the party-going traveller.” It’s all well and good that it offers a more authentic experience than the resorts further north, but people who come here care about one thing only – deep powder. Just how much is there? “During the peak season (from the end of December through to late February) we get a lot of storm cycles, with a typical cycle dumping down a lot of snow in one night, anywhere from 40 cm up to 120cm and then the storm breaking for a sunny day afterwards.

“Powder-wise, during peak times it’s as light as they come. It’s not unusual to have a bow wave of snow around your waist when riding down one of the designated ungroomed runs, so face masks are a must!”

We’ll see that for ourselves soon enough.

Shelling out 2000 yen (S$25) for an afternoon’s riding, we board the gondola and smoothly careen up the mountain. This side is split between two sides – Akakura Kanko and Akakura Onsen.

The sun is in its final death throes of the day by the time we reach the top, and the view from the top is gasp-inducingly beautiful. A peach hue coats the meringue snow, and the usually monochrome treeline of the opposite mountain is cast in a golden glow. And the snow? It’s deep, and there’s plenty of it. The runs are wide, fast, and even though it’s the afternoon, there are still pockets of untouched powder to smash into dust. There’s not a rock or a patch of ice to be seen. Crowds are non-existent. Even though it’s peak season, it’s not uncommon to look about and not see  a soul.

As the sun sets, we weave our way through the wide meadows and easy tree runs, and we eventually arrive back at the hotel.

Those accustomed to winter sports will understand the need for a shower after a few hours on the slopes, and we are no different. There’s only one problem – our room doesn’t have a shower. That leaves only the onsen, which presents a few cultural difficulties of its own.

An onsen is a Japanese hot spring, and Myoko Kogen has an abundance. These springs are piped directly to most the inns in the town, and Hotel MOC is no exception.

Unfortunately (depending on your modesty levels), Japanese custom dictates that anyone who enters an onsen must do so without a scrap of clothing. People with tattoos aren’t allowed, because traditionally the only Japanese with tattoos were members of the Yakuza organised crime gangs. Times are very slowly changing, and some onsens will let in foreigners who have ink. I don my yukata bathrobe, and descend to the basement. Opening the door to the men’s onsen, I step inside a small changing room and get in the nude. A sliding door opens to the room which houses the bath. Here’s a disclaimer: I’m not a big team sports guy, so getting butt naked with a bunch of strangers isn’t the most natural thing in the world for me. Added to the apprehension are a couple of tattoos on my person. I don’t know whether I’ll be run out of the place if I try my luck, but what choice do I have?

The door opens in a billow of steam. A couple of Japanese guys and some Swiss tourists are drinking warm Asahis and chatting away. Conversation stops as I sit down at the small shower and scrub the sweat off. Are they offended by my tattoos? I have no idea. They don’t tell me to leave, however, and I ease myself into the scorching bathwater. I feel like a lobster, but try to mask it with my best impression of serene relaxation.

I stay in there as long as I can physically handle – about 15 minutes – and when I get out for a cold shower, the room starts to fade to black.

Luckily I pull myself together enough to rinse off and get back into my yukata before floating back up to the room on a hazy cloud of pure tranquility. It’s as if I have been flattened by a giant rolling pin.

Over the next five days, Jacqui and I settle into something of a routine. Wake early for breakfast. Up the gondola and chairlifts, down to the foot of the mountain. Repeat. Lunch. More snow. Hotel. Onsen. Dinner (usually consisting of giant bowls of udon noodles). Bed.

The day before we’re due to leave, Jacqui and I arrive at the gondola half an hour early and there’s already a line. It’s been snowing hard all night, the bloated flakes coating everything in sight in a layer about two feet deep.

We’re in the third gondola up, behind a group of middle-aged Japanese skiers who have time-travelled straight from the 80’s. Their excitement is infectious. Going as high as we can, we emerge. I have been eyeing up a certain black run all week – a steep, wide run flanked by trees but carved into large moguls, which are hell on any snowboarder. Today, though, the moguls are buried deep, and I’m the first on this particular run. Floating both on and through the incredibly light powder, at each turn a wave of snow explodes into smoke, turning my black jacket white. The famed Japanese powder surely lives up to the cliché of “it has to be seen to be believed.”

By the time the trail has run its course, I’m sweating. It’s freezing outside, but I’m no longer in any rush at all.

This article was originally published in May 2013.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly to Tokyo, and catch the Nagano Shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagano. From there, it’s a 40 minute train to Myoko Kogen. Once in Myoko Kogen, get a taxi or hotel transfer to the resort.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel MOC is a great, family-run hotel about one minute’s walk from the gondola. The $75 per person fee is quite reasonable for Japan, and it includes breakfast. www.hotelmoc.com

Myanmar – A Silver Lining in the Golden Land

Myanmar: the name generates a flood of emotions. After spending just six days there, I hardly know where to begin. Culturally, as ancient as many European countries, Myanmar was a failed British colony, which achieved brief democracy before darkness descended in 1962. It became an international pariah for 40 years and perhaps the living embodiment of Orwell’s 1984, and finally it has become a modern Lazarus as its government turns 180 degrees and marches out of its self-imposed isolation. Myanmar definitely perches on the precipice of a new future.

Change now occurs almost daily. Two years ago Ang San Suu Ki was in jail. This year she’s a member of parliament and leader of the opposition. Last year, Yahoo! and many other internet sites were blocked, and you couldn’t get a visa at the airport. This week they’re not and you can. At the moment you can only change pristine US dollars for Kyat (pronounced “chat”) – in maybe a few months you’ll be able to change anything anywhere, or use a credit card. Trade sanctions are all but gone, and journalists are tolerated. And next year – who knows?

But there is one thing I hope will never change, and will draw you back again – the warmth and openness of its extraordinary people.

Visiting Myanmar is a little more of a challenge than some other Southeast Asian countries. It’s best to engage a Myanmar tourist agent directly, if only to get the internal flights arranged. But once you get used to the delays in emails, the organization is flawless. And on the ground, everything happened for us like clockwork.

We probably spent too long in the capital Yangon and too little up-country. Yangon, or Rangoon as the British re-named it, is fascinating but is not a relaxing place in the heat of the day, even though motorcycles are banned and the traffic is relatively moderate. Ancient Victorian buildings, resplendent with washing hung from windows, trees growing from the plasterwork and satellite dishes sprouting from roofs, slowly crumble into the decrepit city streets. Almost every downtown footpath turns into a market, full of fruit and vegetables and street food, stalls where you can buy a phone call on a land-line, or purchase clothes, flowers, jade or plastic toys. There are even street lawyers with ancient pre-war typewriters, who for a few thousand Kyat will advise you on a legal problem and then type a petition while you wait.

The major hotels are more than comfortable. The Savoy is an old-world bastion of colonial charm, but we chose to stay in the Traders – a monolith of dim lounges and comfortable rooms where most of the business travelers stay. Here the buzz of new opportunities was palpable – the lounge was full of multicultural meetings between Burmese dressed in the traditional longyi (a kind of traditional sarong) and Europeans in ties, smiling and gesticulating over the inevitable cups of tea.

Two attractions stand out in Yangon: the Shwedagon Pagoda and the Bogyoke Aun Sang markets. In a country of pagodas and temples, Shwedagon is the Uluru of Myanmar. Tourists here are outnumbered by the Myanmar, who visit as a matter of course to marvel, meditate and pray amongst its 70 pagodas. We were approached many times by locals, tourist guides and monks wanting to engage us in conversation and proudly show off the country’s crown jewel. Almost no-one is reticent about being photographed.

Bogyoke markets are only a few blocks from the Traders, and are stuffed full of the best Myanmar crafts, clothes, food, gems and jewelry. It’s hot, but I have never experienced such polite haggling.

“I’m sorry, I don’t want any fake glass gems or deep fried crickets or tours around Yangon.

“Oh, okay, thank you sir. Please tell me where are you from, and I must apologise for my poor English”.

When it comes to “up-country”, there are two essential visits – the ancient plains of Bagan, and extraordinary Lake Inle. Starting around 400AD, the Pagan civilization began building temples and stupas on the plains at Bagan next to the Irrawaddy river. Construction reached a peak in 1100-1300 AD, and there are now some 2200 stupas there, about 50 times more than at Angkor in Cambodia. Our guide was a veritable scholar of all things Buddhist, and we came to understand that in Myanmar, life and Buddhism are one. We saw the plains at sunset from the top of the Minyeingon temple, walked through quiet farming villages and fields of peanuts and sesame plants, visited lacquer workshops, and enjoyed Myanmar curries from the decking at the Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort, overlooking the placid Irrawaddy. Bagan embodies the calm and beauty of Burma, but I have no idea how this area will cope with the vastly expanded tourist numbers that are sure to come.

At Lake Inle, one day and night was definitely not enough. We flew into Heho early in the morning, and were greeted by our wonderful guide, Daw May Lai. She ushered us into a minivan and we drove to the lake (about an hour from the airport), with appropriate stops at a village market and Buddhist monastery. The three of us then transferred to a traditional long boat and motored across the lake’s mirrored surface for 20 minutes to the Myanmar Treasure Resort. This beautiful accommodation steps out over the lake in a series of bungalows. There is no air conditioning, but at an elevation of 3000 feet, Inle is much cooler than the plains.

Our remarkable day began with a boat trip past the famous Lake Inle fishermen rowing canoes in the traditional way – with one oar attached to one leg. We glided between the floating gardens – long rows of tomatoes and other vegetables floating in soil supported by woven water hyacinth, and tended by gardeners in canoes. We visited villages built over the lake on stilts, and toured up and down the “streets” as though we were in some ancient version of Venice.

The highlight was the invitation to visit a local family living in a simple, three-room thatched hut, built on stilts above the water in the fisherman’s village. Here we met the family and many of their relatives, ranging from a 19-day-old baby to a 78-year-old aunt, all gathered for a pre-festival feast that night and to pay respect to the family matriarch, their 84-year-old grandmother. We gave and received gifts, talked about life, ate fermented tea-leaf salad (lahpet) and other delicacies, thereby ruining our hitherto safe food regime.

We will carry a piece of Myanmar with us forever. And as a photographer, I hope I’ll return to more carefully capture the essence of these wonderful people. But for now we’ll follow Myanmar’s fortunes as she bravely moves into the 21st century, and trust that during the changes that must now inevitably occur, the Golden Land will retain the beauty of its people and strength of its culture that we experienced in our brief visit.

A brief (and incomplete) history of Burma

Modern humans have lived in Burma since 1100BC. Buddhism arrived from India in the 2nd century and became a central tenet of Burmese culture to this day. In the 9th century, the Myamah (Burma) peoples from the Kingdom of Nanzhao in China settled and eventually established the Pagan Empire, which crumbled and reinvented itself over the next 10 centuries. Burma suffered and survived British colonisation in 1886 and Japanese invasion in 1942, before becoming a sovereign democratic nation in 1948. In 1962, democracy died when General Ne Win took control in a coup de etat, and led Burma into an impoverished military-controlled communist state. Hope briefly flared after free elections in 1990, won by the party headed by Suu Ki, the daughter of Aung San, the original father of the nation, assassinated by his bodyguard in 1948. However she was arrested and endured almost 20 years under house detention. Then, with little warning, a miracle occurred in 2010. The government released Aung Sang Suu Ki and other political prisoners, rewrote the constitution, held free elections (albeit for a limited number of seats) and embarked on a series of reforms that continue today.

This article was originally published in March 2013.

Singapore at your Doorstep

Explore Singapore’s culture and heritage without stepping on a train or in a taxi? It can be done. Kieran Nash finds how in a different type of staycation.

Marina Bay Sands. The Singapore Zoo. A Singapore Sling at Raffles. How many times do you have to visit these tourist traps with visitors before you’d rather jump off the bloody skypark than endure another high-priced cocktail overlooking the city?

If you’re looking for an interesting staycation, or have some friends in town who aren’t keen on tourist cliché’s, here’s a challenge: don’t venture further than a two-kilometre radius and pack your weekend with interesting cultural events. It can be done – if you choose the right location.

Fort Canning Park is the obvious choice: Plenty of history, close to a wealth of entertainment and cultural venues, and a green space amid the concrete. But before the exploring starts, a home base is needed. Again, an obvious choice: Hotel Fort Canning. Hotel Fort Canning is a grand old dame of a hotel, steeped in history. Although the place re-opened as Hotel Fort Canning in 2010, the building was built in 1926 as the administration building of the British Far East Command HQ. Over the last 86 years, it has been occupied by the Japanese military and used as part of the British military administration.

Fort Canning Hill itself has a history stretching even further back, and has been the exclusive address of many of Singapore’s rulers and colonial leaders dating back to the 14th century, when it was the site for the palatial resort of former Majapahit kings. In more recent times, colonial governors lived there, including Sir Stamford Raffles.

Relics of these previous residents are on display in the hotel’s lobby, a glass floor revealing an archaeological dig showing ceramic cookware from years past. Rather than the palm-beach staycations of Sentosa that most flee to, Hotel Fort Canning makes you feel like you’ve gone bush. There is lush greenery from every window, and it’s hard to believe that just past all the leaves is the CBD. As a boutique hotel it’s smaller, and therefore more intimate than most mega-accommodation, and a unique indoor-outdoor flow in the rooms adds to the zenlike nature of the place.

Strolling through the leafy surrounds of Fort Canning Park provides a welcome opportunity to slow down and relax. Those interested can follow the Fort Canning Spice Trail, which contains a collection of more than a hundred species of plants, including herbs, spices, and some with medicinal properties. The trail pays homage to the original spice gardens at the park, which used to spread over hectares.

From there, the National Museum of Singapore is the logical next stop. Even for those who may have already visited the museum when they first arrived, it’s worth going back there for another look. The place itself is an impressive feat of architecture, the original neo-classical building joined by a modernist glass extension, bringing light and space to the design.

There are plenty of informative, entertaining exhibits – the Living Galleries food exhibit in particular a delightful blend of history, culture, sights, sounds and smells, taking the visitor through the rich culinary history of the Lion City.

Another highlight is a video display of ANZA’s very own Raelene Tan, explaining the ups and downs of being in a cross-culture marriage decades ago, back when attitudes were a lot different.

As the afternoon melts into evening, it’s back to the hotel for free Prosecco and red and white wine, topped off with some canapés for the guests at the private lounge. It’s not a special event – it’s just something that the hotel puts on for guests for two hours every day.

Just around the corner on Armenian St, French restaurant Le Bistrot du Somellier beckons. Its rustic setting and top-quality menu is European dining at its best, and although not cheap, is certainly not the most expensive venue in Singapore for fine French fare.

Those wanting to kick on after that can head virtually next door to The Substation, home to some of Singapore’s best live original music.

Wake up the next morning for a swim in the pool, surrounded again by greenery, hidden from the concrete jungle which lurks beyond.

A stroll alongside the Singapore River reaches Toby’s Estate café in Robertson Quay, and this far up the river the tacky tourism of Clarke Quay gives way to a more sedate, relaxing setting. Some super-strong coffee injects some life into the morning; why not check out the Singapore Art Museum, showcasing the best Singapore and Asian contemporary art, housed in a restored 19th century mission school. The Learning Gallery is a great way to nurture an appreciation for art and discuss broader issues, and exhibitions like People and Places are a way to explore issues like identity, society and culture through the works.

Once you’ve flexed your mind muscles, top the weekend off with bak kut teh (meat bone tea) a herby, spiced broth containing meaty pork ribs. A short walk from Fort Canning is Song Fa Bak Kut on New Bridge Rd – a humble family stall which expanded over decades and passed from father to son. There, guests can try everything from premium loin ribs to pig’s stomach and braised pig’s trotter.

As the weekend draws to a close, why not top it all off in style at 28 Hong Kong Street, an innocuous door with no signage which opens to a stylish, high-end cocktail bar with some of the best drinks around. Whether you’re there with locals or visitors, the “secret” location is sure to make anyone feel like part of some hip underground community.

So there you have it, there is a way to explore Singapore without venturing near the usual tourist traps. Who knows: you might just learn something new.

This article was originally published in September 2013.

Singapore Sports Hub

Singapore’s ever-expanding skyline has another landmark – and this so big it can easily fit the Sydney Opera House under its roof.

It’s the new Singapore Sports Hub, a 1.33 billion-dollar development which will transform the Kallang basin and put Singapore on the world’s sporting stage. It’s due to be completed this year and will feature a futuristic, fully enclosed stadium, which can seat 55,000 fans.

It will become the hub for soccer, cricket, athletics, and rugby, and will also be the go-to venue for any international concert which is too large for the Singapore Indoor Stadium.

The dome itself is 312 metres wide, 85 metres from pitch to ceiling, and is fully enclosed to keep out the weather. Cooling ducts underneath the seats keep the temperature down, and the seats will move to allow for different seating configurations depending on whether the sport is football, cricket or athletics.

The Hub’s owners hope that one day the hub will host Commonwealth Games events and trainings for the 2019 Rugby World Cup in Japan.

But it’s not just a stadium. The designers had bigger things in mind when they built this massive dome structure.

At 34.1 hectares, the whole site is a lot smaller than comparable sports stadium developments in East London, Sydney and Barcelona, but it still takes up a large chunk of the Kallang basin, and is packed with features.

On the sporting side, the Sports Hub will also house a world-class aquatics centre with capacity for 6000 spectators, and a number of sports arenas for sports such as basketball, badminton and table tennis, which has capacity for up to 3000.

And, being Singapore, of course there will be a huge shopping mall and a 17,000 square foot office space.

That’s not all. Along the promenade, there will be plenty of other features to cater for smaller sports. On the water, a specially-designed area for kayaking, rowing and dragon boating will lure watersports fans.

An array of community spaces will surround the stadium, including beach volleyball areas, cycling and jogging tracks, lawn bowls, basketball courts, a skate park and rock climbing wall.

The Sports Hub replaces the old, well-loved Kallang National Stadium. The old stadium held lots of fond memories for Singaporeans, but at 40 years old is not suited to the task of being the number one spot for national sports games.

Our own ANZA president can also recall some momentous occasions from the old stadium:

“I have memories of the old stadium, ranging from the fond (commentating on various Singapore national team football matches including one against Australia in 2007), to the somewhat painful (preseason training back in my playing days), says PJ Roberts.

Project architect HP Teoh, from DP Architects says the project has been a big challenge, but eight months to go, the end is in sight.

“We’ve been spending about eight years on this project, and we’re now on the final lap.”

The designers of the Sports Hub have three goals: to be a place for sports, a community space and a way to enhance Singapore’s identity.

“This is not just a stadium. It’s actually a community place,” says Teoh.

 BY THE NUMBERS

  • 55,000-seat National Stadium with a retractable roof, moveable seating tiers, and air-cooling to all spectator seats;
  • 6,000-seat Aquatics Centre & Leisure Water facility;
  • Sports Arenas able to host indoor sports events of up to 3,000-seats;
  • 41,000 sqm (441,000 sqft) of commercial retail space;
  • The existing 13,000-seat Singapore Indoor Stadium.

This article was originally published in August 2013.

Back on the Bike

Jimmy Guardino share his first six months of cycling with ANZA. My leap from the United States to Singapore in August 2012 was anything but ordinary. A week prior to my big departure at my last cycling event in the States, I came down in a high-speed crash and broke my shoulder blade. Not the send-off I was hoping for by any stretch of the imagination.

Before I moved to Singapore, I was doing 40 or more races a year with the Quaker City Wheelmen, a Philadelphia-based elite cycling team. So naturally, when my ‘real world’ job as a reinsurance broker offered an opportunity to move to Singapore for two years, my first instinct was to Google “cycling teams Singapore”. The first group I came across was ANZA Cycling. The club was well-established and welcoming to newcomers, so I reached out to then road director Mark Haller. A few days later he came back to me and confirmed what I had been eager to hear – cycling was alive and well in Singapore!

So off I went to Singapore, alone, without my beloved bike and my arm in a sling.

About a month later it was time to say goodbye to the sling. Coincidentally it was also around the same time that ANZA was having a social event for new members to the club. I was a bit nervous on the night of the event but everyone was very friendly. People were intrigued by my story and my planned comeback. It was this event that, coupled with the team’s overwhelming support to have me represent ANZA Cycling, sparked my motivation to return to racing. My comeback race would be representing ANZA in the Cat 1 field of the Tour de Bintan in November 2012.

My bike arrived in September – finally it would be time to get back out on the open road. I arrived at the first Saturday morning ride with no idea what to expect. When I arrived at the local meeting place I was greeted by a swarm of flashing lights and cyclists alike. I was in my element and quickly found some familiar faces in ANZA kits.

Slowly but surely, over the next few weeks I got to know my fellow teammates both on and off the bike. The weekend rides were enjoyable and offered varying levels of difficulty depending on what you were looking for. Still, regardless of how fast or slow, we always regrouped for coffee and banter afterwards – crucial ingredients to any good weekend bike ride! While this was happening, veteran club members Glen Kenny and Alan Benson were putting together a weekend trip for us to travel as a team to Bintan, Indonesia to recon the tour stages.

Between the hundreds of kilometers logged and overall sense of camaraderie I felt with my new teammates, this trip was and will always be one of my favorites.

Finally it was the big weekend of the Tour de Bintan. The support from fellow club members was enormous. ANZA Cycling was well represented in just about every field of competition. When fellow teammate Pierre-Alain Scherwey and I managed to break away and place second and third respectively in Stage 2 and reach the podium representing ANZA, it was by far one of the most epic feelings in the world. To think, just three months after being sidelined with a broken shoulder blade, and now I was on top of the world, celebrating a successful return to racing with some great new mates. I really could not have asked for anything more.

This article was originally published in April 2013.

Southern Hemisphere Wine Vintages in 2013

The wine harvest season in the Southern Hemisphere in 2013 was a classic case of less is more: hot dry weather meant lower yields but expectations of higher flavour intensity, particularly for McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley reds. The expectations were looking like an exciting vintage all round, with Hunter Valley winemaker Andrew Cruickshank of Callatoota estate saying, “It had been fantastic year”.

I thought we’d take a brief retrospective through the recent vintages and some of their best wines, starting with Stella Bella Sangiovese Cabernet 2008 When a young vineyard has such strong branding my natural reaction is (I’m almost ashamed to admit) skeptical. Perhaps it’s my European side, but I tend to think that a winery needs to have consistently proved itself before it becomes a familiar name, whereas Stella Bella seems to have inserted itself into the common vernacular alongside veterans such as Howard Park. As if that wasn’t enough of a challenge for this robust red wine from Western Australia, I’m also not keen on progressive blends. Well, this wine breaks both of those rules. The mix of the earthy tannins and dry cherry fruit in the Sangiovese is subtly enhanced with a sweeter dark red berry Cabernet Sauvignon that manages to add to the palate whilst staying discretely in the background. A delightful example of a year that split the country in two, with eastern wine regions suffering from blistering heat, but a classis vintage in the west.

Rolling the clock forward to 2009 and travelling south and east to McLaren Vale. The crew at Brick Kiln have discovered the secret of ageing – not, as most of us would like to discover, how to stay eternally youthful, but instead how to produce mature, complex wines despite only being planted in 1996. Perhaps the secret is finding what you’re good at and sticking to it, and at Brick Kiln that’s Shiraz. This is the kind of wine that makes you want to dive into the glass. The sheer depth of flavours and aromas without becoming an overpoweringly strong red, is stunning. Drink it while you can, since cool weather dramatically affected yields of 2009 Shiraz from McLaren Vale.

Dialling our compass north, just briefly, to Napa and a vineyard that sits in the centre of that great wine growing region, Predator Old Vines Zinfandel 2010 is a perfect example of why vineyards shouldn’t be afraid to sacrifice yield for complexity. Harvested from 40 year old vines, this deep purple wine is rich, with mocha notes and Christmas spices. 2010 was a cool summer in Napa, producing elegant and restrained reds, while for Australia it marked the first vintage since 2004 to be consistently good across all regions.

Our first white of the day is Highfield Sauvignon Blanc 2011, from Marlborough NZ. For a young wine, this is a remarkably intelligent tipple. Classically herbaceous aromas combine with an acidic palate that never approached sharp. Five months ageing on yeast lees adds to the complexity in this wine, making it a surprisingly multi-layered youthful drop.

Soul Growers Riesling 2012 from Australia’s Eden Valley is a great example of a dry Riesling: fresh, almost tart, with citrus notes and a lingering finish. 2012 was a challenging vintage for reds in the Eden Valley, due to cooler weather, but whites were abundant, so fill your boots (or fridges).

This article was originally published in April 2013 and modified for The ANZA Guide to Singapore.

To Be the Belle of the Ball

The ticket is bought, the table is full and the gang is ready for their next ball. Well the guys are. For the girls, it’s just the beginning.

Black tie, formal, red carpet – all these words send us girls hurtling towards Orchard Road, credit card in hand, to start the search for the new dress.

But what is a formal dress? How do I accessories it? Most importantly, where do I go to find one?

Well, the best black-tie gown is one that suits your personality, body shape and budget. Once you have done a few balls, you may want to mix it up with different dresses that could be a bit more cocktail-style. Regardless of the style, there are few rules I go by when selecting my black-tie outfits.

Choose the right accessories. Strappy shoes, clutch bag and bling jewellery are a must.

If the dress is short, choose strapless, tulle or sequins to make it formal. A dress that could be worn to work won’t work! And just because it is long, does not always mean it is black tie.

No matter how cold it may be inside or out, a jacket or wrap that doesn’t complement the dress should be left at home.

The right knickers will make or break your outfit. Find the right bra and, more importantly, wear knickers that hold you in with no VPL (visible panty line). To be sure, take the dress in with you to Triumph and try on their range until you have the perfect fit and finish.

Get the right fit. If you have to tug and pull at your dress while trying it on, it will drive you made on the dance floor and will not be a good look when you don’t care anymore. Dresses that fall down, ride up or grab in all the wrong spots should be put back on the rack.

Recycle. Choose a different crowd and wear the same dress, and mix it up with a change to the shoe, bag, accessory or the way you do your hair.

Most of all, enjoy the ritual of dressing up and, treat yourself to a makeover. You deserve it!

This article was originally published in April 2013.

Best spots to shop for formal wear in Singapore:

  •  BCBG Maxazaria – Stores at Paragon, MBS and Ion
  • Ana boutique – Club St – Stockist for Pia Gladys Perry
  • Willow and Huxley – Amoy St
  • Karen Millen – Paragon, Ion
  • Charlie Brown – Online and in Sydney
  • Coast – Paragon
  • Raoul – Paragon 

Shoes, accessories and bags:

  • Guess
  • Haji Lane (for clutches)
  • Diva
  • Lovisa
  • Steve Madden
  • Nine West

Aussie Rules in Singapore

The Singapore Australia Rules Football club started life as the Singapore Lions in 1993. It was somewhat of a false start, as the founders, in their eagerness to create a social sporting club for Aussie rules fans, neglected the fact that there was another football franchise in Singapore also called the Lions – the National soccer team! So, it was a letter from the Singapore Lions’ legal department that led to the birth of the Wombats. Why the Wombats? Every other iconic Australia animal was already claimed as a mascot, and the Wombat was an apt description of the early playing stock.

The Wombats purpose has always been primarily social, the football being a reason to gather on a Saturday and have a few beers. Like all things that have humble beginnings, the Club has grown over the years in tandem with similar clubs all around Asia.

In 1999, a quasi-Asian league was formed, and the inaugural Asian Championships were held in Bangkok, which Singapore won, defeating arch-rival Hong Kong in the final.

Singapore has gone on to be the most successful team in a league that now has thirteen teams. Notably, Singapore went undefeated from November 1996 to August 2002, a reign Kevin Sheedy say is the longest undefeated run he has encountered during his 50 years in the game as a player and coach.

In 1997, the Wombats represented Singapore at the biannual Arafura games in Darwin, and were the only Singapore team to win a medal (a bronze). This led to a televised game between Singapore and Malaysia in 1997 which attracted a large crowd of curious spectators. It is now part of Wombat folklore that the coach appeared on Singapore’s Sunday morning sports program to discuss the game, wearing his shirt inside out and looking slightly disheveled after a massive night out celebrating the win over the Malaysian Tigers, as they were then known.

Finding a space large enough to play our game has always presented a major challenge to the club’s survival. In the early days, a fax would go out each Friday at 3pm, specifying Saturday’s training venue. Over the years, games have been played at Sentosa, Sembawang, the field where the Marina Bay Sands currently sits, and various random fields in the heartlands. Much later, Turf City provided the club its first real home.

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Wombats became famous for hosting large, Australian-style sportsman’s nights which would pack out entire hotel ball rooms and feature legendary Australian cricketers (Dennis Lillie was the first guest), and a procession of Aussie rules identities, ranging from Kevin Sheedy to Warrick Capper. The late David Hookes was one of the most popular. In 2002, the club raised $75,000 for the Bali bombing appeal at an event held at the Regent Hotel, where it is believed that’s the world’s highest price for a VB stubby ($7000) was paid in the charity auction. The grand final functions in the 1990s developed a reputation as the expat party of the year and the only place you could watch the AFL final, semi-live. The games were recorded via satellite at the Australian Naval Base and couriered to the function to be played back, with a ‘slight’ delay.

The demographic of the Wombats has changed somewhat over the years. In the early 1990s, the club was populated with young people looking to find opportunity overseas against the backdrop of Australia’s last recession and general economic gloom, with young engineers making up the majority. Now the club incorporates a broad cross-section of the expat community, with many long-term expats forming the foundation of a club that hopefully will be around for many years to come. To find out more email aussierules@anza.org.sg

This article was originally published in March 2013.

Get Dive Fit

Being a diver means that you have additional health issues that non-divers don’t really need to worry about as much. We don’t need to be Olympians, but we do need a good degree of fitness. Being fit enough to swim 200 metres without stopping is one of the course criteria.

All divers must follow these health and care guidelines:

  • Keep well hydrated before and after each dive.
  • Avoid colds, which can block sinuses, which are a critical part of the body. Colds can cause equalisation problems, which can be a little painful. So stay healthy and keep your ears cleaned too.
  • Smoking is a definite no go, but unfortunately many divers still continue to smoke and accept the risks involved.
  • Avoid drinking alcohol prior to all dives, and any evening drinks prior to a day of diving should be reduced to nil or very little.
  • Avoid getting sunburn.

Some general tips are:

  • Be medically dive fit and physically dive fit – yoga and stretching exercises will help with your breathing techniques.
  • Eat a piece of fruit before and after each dive – this helps avoid muscle cramps and replaces vitamins depleted during dives. Bananas and watermelon are especially good.
  • Don’t dive if you’re feeling unwell – rest on the boat.
  • Be well hydrated – drink lots of water and avoid carbonated drinks.
  • Be well insulated – change into dry clothes after your dive.
  • Avoid deep, repetitive dives, and reduce diving depths during a weekend of diving.
  • Minimise exercise during and after diving – a nap should always be in order.

As with anything to do with your health, if you are unsure, consult a doctor or a specialised dive doctor.

This article was originally published in March 2013.

The Healthy Wardrobe

When shopping for fashion, most of us like to look for natural fibres, cottons, silks, and linens. Living in Singapore, where the climate is constantly hot and sticky, natural fibers are a must. 

But as with our food, just because it is natural, does not mean it is organic. The majority of clothing produced nowadays is treated by harsh chemicals – recognisable by the “new t-shirt” smell which disappears after a couple of washes.

These chemicals are used to keep the garments crease free and pretty for merchandising and sale. Unfortunately, these chemicals are toxic and not good for us. For this reason, we should be washing everything before we wear it – unless, of course, we have bought organic.

Organic brands promise that no chemicals where used making the fabric – whether it’s in growing the cotton, silk or bamboo, or making the finished product. This includes everything from sprays on crops to transport and shipping.

For me this is particularly important for babies and children, and one of my all-time favorite brands for organic baby clothes, bed linen and products is Nature Baby in New Zealand. They ship internationally and provide organic cotton and wool for newborns all the way through to school age.

There has been a lot of research into the chemicals used in bedding products, and for this reason mattress covers have become a must for all new mums. The same applies for the linen. Choosing organic cotton sheets, pyjamas, sleeping bags and mattress protectors are most definitely a healthier choice.

But what about the ethical argument? Well, as a stylist, I love looking for boutique-type brands that source their own fabrics and stores that deal with boutique designers. This way, not only are we getting unique pieces but we also know there is integrity in their manufacturing.

A new store to Singapore on Amoy St is Willow and Huxley, and they have a plethora of international brands that fit this bill perfectly. They have limited collections, and beautiful fabrics and cuts.

Of course there will always be the need and desire to shop High St and there is more and more pressure on the big brands to manufacture ethically. As consumers we can choose to support or not support those that do indeed have a conscience and protect human rights and the environment.

The environment is also to be considered, and we should look for renewable and sustainable materials. One of the up-and-coming ethical choices is bamboo. Bamboo is renewable, extremely fast growing, and the fabric itself is superbly comfortable and absorbs more moisture on the skin than cotton – so it’s perfect for Singapore. I love the range from Zhai for basics. Getting a healthy wardrobe is easy, it just takes a little thought and an awareness of what your options are.

Happy shopping!

ETHICAL BRANDS

Bassike   www.bassike.com.au

Nature Baby     www.naturebaby.co.nz

Zhai      www.zhai.com.sg

Willow and Huxley      www.willowandhuxley.com

Earth and Me      www.myearthtoo.com

This article was originally published in March 2013, photo courtesy of Zhai.

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